How to Make a Crosscut Sled


Improve your cuts with a crosscut sled

I find that table saws are great for ripping boards (cutting along the grain) but cross cutting wood (across the grain) can be more challenging.

rip cut crosscut diagram


A typical rip cut will be used to make a board narrower along it’s length. I find these easier because the full length of the board is supported as it runs along the table saw’s rip fence. Using a push stick or a push block (Like the GRR-RIPPER!) to advance the board through the blade is absolutely necessary to keep your fingers safe when ripping.


Most table saws aren’t really set up for making good crosscuts. The miter gauge comes with the saw is  supposed to handle crosscuts, but is usually inadequate for a couple reasons. One, it’s too short: there just isn’t enough support for a long board. There is no support for your work piece next to the blade.


Cutting a short board provides no support and would be dangerous.


Most people will lengthen their miter gauge by screwing a board to its face. This helps, but there is still the problem of having a single runner to ride in the miter slot. It’s not unusual for there to be enough play side-to-side to cause inaccuracies in your cuts.


And finally, since a miter gauge is meant to be adjusted for angled cuts, getting it back to a perfect 90 degree angle can be difficult.

Make a crosscut sled for accurate cuts

I feel than a crosscut sled is an essential jig to have for any table saw. Constructing one will make your time much more enjoyable by ensuring that you can get perfect 90 degree cuts every time. And the best part is that they are easy to make. Just need some scraps of plywood.

Make the fences

The sled has two fences. The one closes to you is needs to be at an accurate 90 degrees to to saw blade. The rear fence is used to help hold the sled together. I made these by gluing and screwing two strips of 3/4″ (19mm) plywood together.


I screwed a steel angle iron to the front fence to ensure it was perfectly straight. I clamped a steel level to the glued-up fence to force it into alignment.



I ripped the runners using 1/4″ (6mm) plywood. This usually just takes tome trial and error to get them to fit into the miter slots perfectly. You want them to easily slide without any side-to-side movement, but you don’t want them to be tight. What works well is to fit them slightly too tight and then sand the edges to fit using a sheet of hand sandpaper.


To glue them to the underside of the sled, I raise them slightly above the table’s surface by stacking coins in the miter slots.


Then I spread glue on them and drop the sled onto them.




After drying for about 30 minutes, I add some screws into the runners for reinforcement. Make sure you countersink all the screws on the underside of the sled so they won’t scratch the top of your table.



I attach the rear fence with glue and screws. It doesn’t need to be perfectly square, unless you would like to use the sled from both sides.


The front fence does need to be perfect. This is the whole point of the sled. First, screw in a single screw to one side of the fence, from the underside of the sled.


With the sled on your table saw, cut halfway through the base and stop. Unplug the saw, raise the blade as high as it will go, and square it to the fence using a framing square. Pivoting on the screw seems to help this process. Once you have it exact, screw it in place from underneath using a few more screws.




Applying past wax to the bottom and runners will help it slide easily on your table saw. Plus the wax is great for the cast-iron table!



Crosscut sled



  1. “Using a push stick or a push block (Like the GRR-RIPPER!) to advance the board through the blade is absolutely necessary to keep your fingers safe when ripping.”

    Funny, I haven’t noticed any blood all those times I ripped boards over 3″ wide without a push stick or block. Maybe they aren’t “absolutely necessary” for all ripping.

  2. I built one of these crosscut sled the last time you made one, using solid oak for the runners. Unfortunately, as wood will want to do, the runners thickness changed over time, so that the runners no longer fit in the tablesaw slots. Unless you have a solution to wood changing dimension, I think making the runners out of a plastic (phenyl?) cutting board may make more sense.

    • Try to use aluminum runners, the aluminum it´s easy to buy and easy to cut, and it´s a good option, i use it for different operations (like fences) on my drill press.

    • Lots of companies have runners made from metal. They even have adjustment screws in them for a perfect fit and they don’t cost a lot. I vote for metal and not shop built.

  3. Terrific project. Miters and square cuts have been a thorn in my side on both my miter and table saw. Going to try and shrink this down a bit to work with my “portable/jobsite” table saw.

  4. Geoff, he has the problem almost solved entirely with the ply runners. My sled runners I used with Tassie Oak which could be 1 of a few different varieties of red oak. And a boatbuilding video showed me not long ago how much a piece of red oak soakes up moisture, you could almost use it as a sponge. Marine ply or form ply (for concreting) are both designed to throw moisture at. I’ll be rebuilding mine with ply soon enough.

  5. just wondering if there is a solution to my problem. I was all ready to build a cross cut sled for my saw today when I noticed that it doesn’t have any slots but a sliding mitre top. I have already been told to get rid of it, however I cannot afford a new saw and it doesn’t get used a whole lot. I have been anxious to start building and cannot seem to find an answer. thanks

    • I have seen people that will put a guide on the outside of the project ans use the end of the table to guide the project through the saw. This would work if (and only if) you could saw off the ends of any kind of rip fence attachment without harming the attachment. Put 1 rail on each end of the sled.

  6. @ leanne,

    Maybe you could use the edge of the table saw bed for the runners
    to slide against.

    Add a horizontal piece to the bottom of the slides to stop the sled from
    rising up.

  7. Wanted to make a cross cut sled but my budget skilsaw table saw has tabs over the groove. So a solid wood piece will not slide through. I would have to trim a groove into the sides. Maybe…or maybe ill purchaseba second OEM miter attachment then use the two metal pieces to scre onto the sled.

  8. I am totally novice to metal & wood work !

    Any good idea about making those aluminium runner would be appreciated.

  9. leanne and Danielle [and probably others]

    I have a Ryobi table saw that has ‘tabbed’ grooves.
    I wanted to make this, but could not until i figured out how to get past the tabbed groove issue.

    This is how i solved it.

    I cut two glides to fit the width of the track and about 1/4″ taller than the top of the track.
    I then slid them into the tracks until they made contact with the tabs. Once abutting the tabs, i tapped the glides about an inch into the tab to ‘imprint’ their positions onto the glide.
    After ‘imprinting’, i tapped the glide out.

    I lowered the saw’s blade so it was just proud of the table, aligned the imprint on the glide to the blade, adjusted the fence so there was enough space between it and the blade to reach the grove etched into the glide.

    I lowered the blade to make a rabbett [not sure if correct term], for the tabs to fit into.
    Worked like a charm.

    I will admit, i was lucky on two counts.
    1. the blade’s width was an almost exact match to the thickness of the tab [it is a bit tight, but it does glide]
    2. i had the blade set to the right height to fit the tabs on the first go. Would probably be wise to set the blade as low as it can go then work up to the height you need.

    • Or, you can carefully file off the pesky tabs like I did, because those only work with the crummy miter gauge that you will never want to use again, there is no harm. Just take your time with a flat bastard file and you will ultimately be improving the saw. Oh, and you probably will have better luck ripping the 1/4″ ply to width (Or use plastic) than trying to find an extrudednaluminum stock that fits that odd size slot.


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