Make a Drill Press Table to Improve Your Workshop’s Efficiency.

Make a Drill Press Table to Improve Your Workshop’s Efficiency.

Most drill presses are not really designed for woodworking but rather machining, and have a tiny round table that is difficult to use for boring holes in long boards or drilling repeated holes.

Image1The useless little table on most drill presses.

In a woodworking shop, I think it’s essential to make a drill press table. This version is simple to make, and has an adjustable fence and stop block.

drill press table





Making the fence

To make┬áthe fence, I cut out two long strips of 3/4″ (18mm) plywood. I recommend plywood because it’s perfectly flat and won’t be subject to any warping.


Making multiple passes over the table saw blade, I cut shallow grooves in the ends of each board and glued these together with the grooves facing each other.




Once that was dry, I cut another groove down the length one one side. This will be for the stop block to ride in. It needs to be just a little deeper than a t-bolt. By the way, if you have trouble finding t-bolts like this, they are sold in the plumbing department as “Toilet Bolts”.



Next, I glued a 1/4″ (6mm) plywood strip to the fence, covering the slot. Be careful not to get glue in the channel.


When that was dry, I cut a narrower slot for the t-bolt to ride in.



The stop block is just a square piece of wood. I cut bevels on two corners. This can be useful in some drilling situations where sawdust gets caught in the corner and prevents your work piece from sliding up flush to the stop block. I cut down the brass toilet bolt to fit, using my hacksaw.




Making the fence clamping blocks

I glued together two oak boards to make the clamping blocks. You could use plywood for these, but I like the extra strength of the hardwood. I drilled a hole all the way through and shaped them with a slight wedge on the “tail” to give it more gripping strength.




Then I drilled a wider, but shallower hole and used epoxy to glue the head of a long bolt inside.



The tabletop

The table itself is just a 3/4″ (18mm) thick piece of plywood. I sanded the edges so they weren’t so sharp and attached it to the round drill press table from underneath, using lag screws.




The fence and stop block just slides around and clamp in place. I used star-knobs for these.




Free Drill Press Table Plans



    • Vic the fence need not be square to the table because you are drilling holes and not cutting the material you are drilling into. So the orientation need not be square. The only squareness you should be concerned about is between the table surface and the drill bit.

  1. Just as a suggestion, if you happen to have space constraints on your wood shop like me, adding some quick release or toggle clamps to the bottom of the table (to clamp against the drill press table) can be helpful for quick removal and storage.

    Great project Steve, I really like it!

  2. I built a drill table a few years ago.
    the one main problem is adjusting the table up and down, because the table is in the way of the crank handle for the adjustment. How do you deal with adjusting the height of the table?

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